The location: 817 Castleton Ave. Just past St. Vincent's Hospital if you're coming from the Ferry.

The expectation: Having never eaten or even set foot in this restaurant, I am relying solely on the fact that the sign on the awning says Restaurant and Bar. The lack of banners trumpeting the World Cup outside has me fearful that the guy behind the bar is going to be too deeply engrossed in the Yankees game to switch the channel.

Here goes nothing...
A good sign.
A very good sign.
That's -- let's see -- 1,2, 3...10 taps, seven of which are pouring a unique brand of German deliciousness, three of which are pouring their less potent American cousins. Nice. Note bartender taking active interest in the game as he pours. Also nice. You want an educated bartender when there's soccer on the TV, because you never know when the goal of the tournament is going to happen. If your bartender knows how to take advantage of the game's lulls, my advice is to tip him in direct proportion to the number of injury minutes tacked onto the half.

Game time. You can read the full match report over at ESPN. Here's my basic assessment: Germany, as usual, looks good but not unbeatable. This game was different. Germany came out attacking from the onset. Less than six minutes into the game Philip Lahm fired a bullet from the left side. His angle was oblique but thanks to a little knuckeball action the ball caught the corner post and skipped in just behind the goalie.

This kind of start was unusual to me, because I always think of Germany as the sort of team that scores the bulk of its goals off of crossing passes and headers. This is how they killed us in 1998 and 2002 (granted, Ollie Kahn and a missed hands call by the ref deserve equal credit in the latter case). I'm interpreting this as an indicator of the general youth of the German team.

Of the eight or so people watching the game, most were vocal Germany fans, so this was a definite mood lifter. Less than seven minutes after the first score, however, Paulo Wanchope, Costa Rica's best player, caught German goalkeeper Jens Lehmann and evened the score. Most of us in the bar thought it Wanchope was offsides, but it seemed that one of the German backs (offscreen in the initial closeup) had been lagging his teammates in setting the trap. This is the biggest German weakness I saw: limited speed and coordination on the back line.
Here it is: The drink special. After starting with a pint of the darker, creamier Spaten Optimator ($4) and nursing it through the bulk of the first half, I decided to take advantage of the bar's World Cup drink special and ask for a $3 Mai bock. It came served in a tall half-liter glass with a cute little soccer ball near the base. Nice touch.

Back to the game...Another five minutes after Wanchope tied the game, Miroslav Klose, star of the 2002 German World Cup team punched in a goal with his left foot.

After that, things went into a bit of a rhythmic lull. Part of it had to do with the two teams losing steam after a fast and furious opening and part of it had to with my second beer. Soccer critics typically deride the game as too boring and too defensive. It's a valid complaint, because even though there's always the danger of a fluke goal, there are certain points in every match when you just know both teams are waiting for the halftime whistle. What keeps me from changing the channel during these times is the fact that you generally get an insight into a team's bread and butter fundamental strengths and weaknesses.

In the case of Germany, and European teams in general, the fundamental strength is ball control. German midfielders generally can get the ball from their penalty box to the opponent's penalty box in less than five passes. This seems fairly simple but it is something we Americans have only just lately started to master. The reason why is it takes phenomenal ball control, dribbling skill and field awareness to string together anything more than three passes on the World Cup stage, the kind of skill that comes only from touching a soccer ball every waking moment of your life and playing against the kind of athletes who currently specialize in basketball hustling at Rucker Park. For that reason, watching the Germans set a six pass run with nary a backwards movement of the ball becomes its own entertainment and enough to while away the dull stretches.

Another reason to welcome the slow parts of the game: It gives you a chance to savor the beer.

In the case of Costa Rica, and Latin American teams in general, the fundamental strength is team speed and a brash confidence in team goal-scoring ability once the opportunity is created. From the Ticos perspective, it doesn't matter how many passes the Germans string together. All they have to do is get it to Wanchope or any of their other speedy frontmen and let the athleticism take over. In a way, the Latin American approach is sort of like the old San Francisco 49ers approach to football: Keep the game even until Jerry Rice or John Taylor can deliver the game-breaking play.

The strategy only works, however, if you can keep the other team out of your goal. Less than 15 minutes into the second half Klose would deliver a second goal, picking up his own rebound off Costa Rican goalie Jose Porras after Porras failed to knock the first shot away from the goal mouth. Although Wanchope added another goal in the 73rd minute, the Ticos were digging themselves out of a deepening hole.
Halftime +5 minutes....The kielbasa platter (sliced Polish sausage served over a bed of sauerkraut with a side of mashed potatoes) arrives. Price: About $8.

Am reminded of the billboard I once saw advertising for The Black Forest Inn, a very popular German eatery in Minneapolis, Minn.: "Americans love our food. German tourists find it surprisingly adequate."
Halftime + 10 minutes....Burp
I've held off on running too many shots of the television, because most of the shots sucked. Still, this is the key goal, so it deserves credit. The white and black object on the touchline is Miroslav Klose celebrating his second goal. As you can see, the play happened so quickly, many of his teammates and opponents haven't even had time to react to it yet.
It is an unwritten rule of American fine dining that all German restaurant waitresses must dress like they just got off the 10:26 haywagon from Brementown. This has always seemed a little weird to me. I mean, you don't go into a French restaurant and find the waiters dressed like sans culottes. Still, it adds to the fantasy that we're not really sitting here in West Brighton but actually enjoying a little mid-day stammtisch at the local kaiserkeller. Who am I to question tradition?

My only regret is that, because I spent the whole game at the bar, I did not have my World Cup match augmented by the witty banter with the charming German-accented waitress as this couple did.

Near the end of the match the restaurant did a t-shirt raffle giveway. I'm not sure why they did this as it was a small crowd, so you pretty much had a 50/50 chance of getting a shirt. I'm also not sure why I chose to take a photo of it.
Wait a minute...is that Assemblyman John Lavelle in the back there? The photo is poor, but I believe it was. I also believe he won a t-shirt.
A beer too far. This is the one that delayed the filing of this report by a full day.
A good closeup of Torsten Frings, the man whose lightning bolt shot off an indirect kick perfectly caught the upper right corner of the goal in the 87th minute. I think it's an official adios muchachos at this point.
Final score: Germany 4- Costa Rica 2. Somehow I don't see a Soccer War arising out of this one.

Next Thursday, however, brings a big matchup: Germany vs. Poland. Today's man of the match, Klose (2 goals), is a Polish-born immigrant, one of several non-native players on the German national team. Expect the political and soccer pundits alike to make much of the matchup.

As for the Nurnberger Bierhaus, I give it high marks. The only thing missing was a larger crowd of noisy fans to give you the "almost there" sensation. Then again, that's the purpose of this story. If you're a soccer fan and you're looking for a place on the island to watch the games, especially the German games, this is the place to do it. The TV's are high def, and the staff know the game. I'm not sure I can say the same for the island's other two German spots (Kilmeyer's over on Arthur Kill and Schaeffer's over on Victory). Despite a competitive beer selection, both of those places seem more like the kind of a bars you'd go to catch the Yankees-Mets matchup.

Anyway, here are what I consider the big, take-a-break-from-the-workday matches for the coming week.
    USA v. Czech Republic, Monday, noon.

    Brazil v. Croatia, Tuesday, 3 p.m.

    Tunisia v. Saudi Arabia, Wed. noon [Tunisia is supposed to be good, Saudi Arabia still owes us for 9/11, so it'll be a good chance to gloat when the Saudis lose 9-nil].

    Germany v. Poland, Wed. 3 p.m. [The last time these two countries met, Warsaw got leveled, so expect the Poles to play way over their heads].

    England v. Trinidad, Thurs noon [colonies vs. their former colonial masters: always a good World Cup setup]

    Argentina v. Serbia-Montenegro [The early skinny has Argentina's Carlos "Apache" Tevez as a Maradona-in-waiting. Chances are it's just hype, but why risk it.]



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